Smita London FAQs

One of the most crucial products to one’s skin care routine is Vitamin C (L’ascorbic acid).

So here’s everything you need to know about L’ascorbic Acid from how it works to why and how you should be using it.

Vitamin C (L’ascorbic Acid) – a naturally occurring vitamin and antioxidant, is the most abundant antioxidant found in the skin; however, declining as we age.

It is a powerful and proven antioxidant that dramatically brightens skin, evens out tone, shields from pollution, improves hydration and reduces signs of ageing. L-ascorbic acid is the most effective form of Vitamin C when it comes to benefits for the skin.

Vitamin C (L’ascorbic Acid) - How does it work?

Vitamin C can be taken orally but absorption through the small intestine is limited and a very small amount reaches the epidermis. Topical application of L’ascorbic acid will cross the epidermis into the dermis (which is where all the collagen fibres, elastin, melanin cells and oil glands are situated) because of its lower molecular weight.

It works as an antioxidant, which means that it helps to prevent the growth of free radicals, problematic molecules that damage cells. Once it is applied to the skin, it works as a barrier to the harsh environment and stops the free radicals from attacking the skin. How it does this is that when the skin is exposed to UV, ROS (reactive oxygen specie/free radicals) are produced. L’ascorbic acid protects the skin from oxidative stress by donating electrons to neutralise the free radicals. Although the L’ascorbic acid has lost electrons, its not harmful in anyway and can be converted back to a form of vitamin C.

When should you apply it?

Applying Vitamin C to the skin can be 20 more times effective than taking it orally. Vitamin C must be applied once a day in the morning after cleansing. Its needed in the morning to utilise its antioxidant and photo protective properties.

What should I use?

OK so it’s important to know that not all vitamin C products work the same and deliver the same results. And sadly it’s not as simple as looking at the percentage. This is where it becomes confusing! Vitamin C serums are inherently unstable. When they are exposed to air or light the L’ascorbic acid oxidises and becomes less effective. That is why a vitamin c serum will be sold in a dark glass bottle.

The PH of the L’ascorbic acid should be 3.5 or lower to maintain its stability. If the L’ascorbic acid does oxidise, it’s not harmful to the skin but it’s not beneficial either. It will not have a strong antioxidant effect nor will it have the brightening or collagen stimulating powers.

How should you apply it?

L’ascorbic acid is a powerhouse when mixed with other antioxidants one ingredient, no matter how amazing, is never enough to take the best care of your skin. Although on its own it provides antioxidant and protection from the sun, it works BEST in conjunction with vitamin E, basically the L’ascorbic acid becomes more powerful and thus more effective!

Therefore apply one of the products recommended below, apply a few drops to the face and neck, allow it to penetrate the skin before applying further products. Vitamin C is your first preventative serum, another serum for correction can be applied after (such as a serum for acne/pigmentation/ lines and wrinkles), followed by a moisturiser and then sun protection. Sun protection is a MUST but using a moisturiser is not compulsory.

Vitamin Serums | Smita London Recommendations

AlumierMD Ever Active C&E + Peptide

This serum is a high-strength vitamin C and vitamin E serum that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

The antioxidants, vitamin C and vitamin E, neutralize free radicals and protect against UV damage, while vitamin C and MATRIXYL® Synthe’6® strengthen and brighten skin.

Many vitamin C serums oxidise in their bottles, turning a brownish colour while they are on the shelf or at home. When oxidized, the vitamin C is no longer beneficial to the skin.

However, EverActive C&E™ + Peptide stays fresh because you only mix the 15% vitamin C into the serum when you’re ready to use it!!!

Vitamin C crystals are kept separate in a cap and only mixed into the bottle of serum when you are ready to use it. This means that you are reducing the possibility of the serum oxidising and thus not being beneficial to the skin.

Instructions

Apply 5-6 drops onto your skin every morning after cleansing and toning your skin.

Ingredients

15 % – L-ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant that protects cells from free radical damage caused by the sun and pollution. Vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis, which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also brightens and evens out skin tone.

Tocopherol Acetate – An effective form of vitamin E for the skin, this highly moisturising and
fat-soluble vitamin protects cell membranes and acts as an antioxidant, which strengthens the effect of vitamin C.

MATRIXYL® Synthe’6® – Derived from a peptide naturally found in collagen, it strengthens skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Super Serum

The Super serum is one of IS Clinical’s Hero products, it is an extremely powerful antioxidant and contain Copper Tri-peptide which is a GROWTH FACTOR and encourages collagen synthesis.

It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, it lightens hyperpigmentation and provides UV photo-protection

Instructions

Apply 5-6 drops onto your skin every morning after cleansing and toning your skin

Ingredients

15% L’ascorbic acid– time released providing continuous delivery to the skin. POTENT antioxidant, protects the skin from photodamage and free radicals, heals the skin and stimulates collagen.

0.5% Centella Asiatica – antioxidant that stimulates collagen, it helps with scar reduction also so very effective for skins with acne scarring.

0.5% Arbutin – Inhibits tyrosinase enzymes that produce melanin (pigmentation), therefore controlling pigmentation.

0.5% Mushroom extract– this is source of `KOJIC ACID – again this inhibits tyrosinase enzymes that produce melanin (pigmentation), therefore controlling pigmentation. It is antibacterial and has antibiotic properties.

Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor – clinically proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in skin fibroblasts. Excellent anti-ageing BIOIDENTICAL ingredient!! 

tIS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum

 A fantastic serum for sensitive and Rosacea patients.

HEALING, SUPER ANTIOXIDANT, ANTI-INFLAMMATORY

Proheal is an exceptional “healing” formula, not only does it provide uv photo-protection, it also offers soothing relief from radiation dermatitis. When applied to the skin, it reduces redness and inflammation associated with cystic acne, rosacea, bites and after an intrusive skin treatment. It’s a very powerful antioxidant and the vitamin E keeps the skin moist and hydrated.

Instructions
Apply 5-6 drops onto your skin every morning after cleansing and toning your skin

Ingredients
  • 15% L’ascorbic acid- time released providing continuous delivery to the skin. POTENT antioxidant, protects the skin from photodamage and free radicals, heals the skin and stimulates collagen.
    1% Vitamin E – it has a moisturising effect, it is an antioxidant which inhibits DNA damage and protects agains UV induced photodamage.
    1% Vitamin A – also known as RETINOL. This is a powerful antioxidant which renews the skin ans is able to improve collagen synthesis.
    0.5% Olive leaf Extract – an anti-inflammatory and anti-acneic antioxidant.
    0.5% Zinc sulphate – an anti-inflammatory antioxidant which promotes wound healing and protects the skin from cancer risks.
    0.5% Arbutin – Inhibits tyrosinase enzymes that produce melanin (pigmentation), therefore controlling pigmentation.
    0.5% Mushroom extract– this is source of `KOJIC ACID – again this inhibits tyrosinase enzymes that produce melanin (pigmentation), therefore controlling pigmentation. It is antibacterial and has antibiotic properties.